Andy Power
Well-Known Member
Do one
Not sure exactly what you think that means, but again... your communication skills.Do one
Now you get it... kind of... I think... errrr maybe not. I actually knew you would respond along these lines. Love it when a plan comes together.Marshall is as cheap as chips over here, because I live in the UK!
I use them as door stops .
For what it's worth: I have a number of cables from Best-Tronics. They are fantastic, and absolutely tour-worthy. I am happy to carry extra gear on the road, especially for hard-to-find items (you never want to go shopping for a 7-pin MIDI cable on the day of show). These cables are "expensive" in the sense that they are not cheap. But that's the point. Between the AxeFX and the MMGT10, I've spent a bit of money. I will not wager my performance on a cheap cable I've had a lot of cables fail on me over the year, including OEM power cables, XLR cables, and wireless input cables. Any cable that is moved / rolled will eventually wear out. The question is: "over the next five years, do you want to replace a cheap cable five times, or buy a single premium cable at 2x the price?". The quality of the cable, connector, and workmanship is what differentiates the wheat from the chaff. I have been using the same Best-Tronics 7-pin MIDI cable at every rehearsal and gig for 4 years, and haven't had to use my spare cable even once.Thanks for the feedback. Definitely not a "greed" thing. We have, and always will, stand behind not marking up products insanely to give some sort of allure that it is "high quality" as many boutique cable manufacturers do.
The cable needs to be spliced for the 3 arms to come out. It takes time to do this properly. To add, you are plugging some high dollar item gear, if the splice point were to break and short - there is potential for damaging this gear. To defend against this, we cover the splicing point within a metal shell. We then pot the metal shell with a custom epoxy from the Fiber Optic division of our company. This provides a rock solid splicing point and will ensure there are no moving parts within this area, plus it will make it pretty darn hard to break. To do this requires extra components and time. Also, when you factor into what this cable is replacing (box is $79 + the cost of two MIDI cables) - I would reckon it is pretty par for the course.
Living overseas certainly doesn't help the case (we are trying our best to negotiate better shipping rates with carriers), so that I can agree on - our hands are tied there.
Again, thanks for the feedback - I just wanted to give an explanation on how it certainly is not a "greed" thing. There is a lot more to it than that.
Got my BPTAI just wanted to point out that Best-tronics is now making a 1 cable solution for phantom powering the GT. It has a 7-pin MIDI connector on the GT end and two 5-pin MIDI and a DC power connector on the other side. This is designed to work with the Axe-Fx III and Kemper Profiler.
https://btpa.com/AS-MSTRMBIP-XX.html
We will continue to offer our phantom power boxes. The main reason you might choose the box it is that it's easier to repair - cables can be swapped out with (fairly) standard cables if needed.
AS-MSTRMBIP-XX cable for my Kemper rack last week and cant get my presets to read on the GT16. The preset boxes stay dark. The bank up/down light up and change the preset bank. But no presets are shown. I have other IA buttons mapped to Device 2 (Chauvet Obey) to change light presets and that device is controlled via the Kemper Midi Thru jack. That device works just fine and is getting the midi commands from the GT16 thru the Kemper. As soon as I unplug the BTPA cable and use 2 midi cables and the power supply, it works fine. Any ideas? Is there a setting I am missing to account for this single cable setup? Thank you - Justin |
Thank you Sir! Just finished soundcheck and it took all of 15 seconds to get it fixed.Make sure Bidirectional MIDI is turned on in the GT's MIDI settings. Also, you shouldn't use Get Preset Names and Auto Names at the same time - choose to use one or the other. Turn off Sync Names and Auto Names in the Devices tab, and then try Get Preset Names again.