Wiring a board with the PBC

keg8605

Active Member
Looking for some tips as I do my second wire up on a pedaltrain pro with the PBC. I think I have an idea of my approach let me know if you guys agree with the below.

Do you guys start with all the power dc routing?
Patch panel will be on the upper left of the board. (I'm stage left in my bands)
Thinking do the longest cable runs first? Wire the pedals on the back row to the PBC and work my way forward?

I'm excited to try and nail it for this 2nd try. Screw ups from my first round were moving to quickly with the cable lengths and not leaving enough play on the ends. Trying to do a "pro" job like LA Sound Design might :)
 
Speaking as one who does pedalboard design/wiring as a side business (see instagram.com/dbpedalboards), this is how I approach it:

1) Design the board. Figure out where everything is going ahead of time - both pedals and cable runs. Plan it out with plugs inserted into the pedals so that you know you're giving everything enough space. If you have pedals that you will be interacting with outside of the PBC, then make sure they are located in a place where you can easily hit them. Try not to crowd everything too much - it just makes everything harder, and will give you less flexibility to change things up later.

2) Review your plan. Seriously. You can't spend too much time here. Think through as much of the build as you can and try to anticipate any potential issues - both in the assembly, and things you might not like when you actually start gigging the board. This is why I draw up the boards I design for my customers. I want them to see it and be able to visualize how things will work in the real world.

3) Lock the pedals down. If you're wanting to do a pro level job of this, then use dual lock. It's a lot more expensive, but it locks the pedals down much harder, which will translate to longer cable life, as they won't get flexed by pedal movement nearly as much.

4) Run your cables. You can start running cable from the PBC or from the farthest pedals (I typically start from the PBC), but once you start, stick with it. It keeps everything simpler and more organized when you start locking things down. For the cables themselves, I recommend soldering one end, figuring out exactly what route it will take, then cutting the final length. Give it plenty of slack - cable is cheap, and it can save you a lot of trouble later. I try to keep DC power cable separate from signal cable just on principle, but don't worry too much about it. AC power cable is the real noise source, so it should be kept as far away from signal cable as possible.

5) Lock down the cables. Start from where you've soldered the plugs onto the cables and work your way to the opposite end, locking things down as you go. Take the time to keep it neat. Label everything clearly. Make sure you leave slack on both sides of the cable run, especially if you use plugs that don't have strain relief.

6) Solder on the remaining plug ends. Test each one as you go. It's a hassle, but it can save you a lot of time later.

Obviously there's a lot more to it, but you get better with time and experience. Keep asking questions if you have them, and post pics when you're done!
 
Thanks!! I feel well aligned with your thoughts. Putting it all into action will be tough but at least I have one under my belt to learn from.

Do you lock down the cables as you go using the wire tie mounts? I want to use these but I’m thinking of just using painters tape until all cables are run.
 
Yeah, when I hit step 5 as listed above, I use zip ties and zip tie mounts to lock everything down. I should clarify that part of locking down the pedals in step 3 is also laying down zip tie mounts for all my wire runs. By doing that, I'm able to tell exactly where all my cable runs will go when I'm measuring out in step 4, which is what allows me to cut their length pretty accurately. From that point, as stated, I start from one point (for the boards I do, it's usually a looper), and I work my way from one end of the board to the other, zip tying everything down as I go. By that point all the cables are cut and run with enough length that I can do it with no worries.
 
Speaking as one who does pedalboard design/wiring as a side business (see instagram.com/dbpedalboards), this is how I approach it:

1) Design the board. Figure out where everything is going ahead of time - both pedals and cable runs. Plan it out with plugs inserted into the pedals so that you know you're giving everything enough space. If you have pedals that you will be interacting with outside of the PBC, then make sure they are located in a place where you can easily hit them. Try not to crowd everything too much - it just makes everything harder, and will give you less flexibility to change things up later.

2) Review your plan. Seriously. You can't spend too much time here. Think through as much of the build as you can and try to anticipate any potential issues - both in the assembly, and things you might not like when you actually start gigging the board. This is why I draw up the boards I design for my customers. I want them to see it and be able to visualize how things will work in the real world.

3) Lock the pedals down. If you're wanting to do a pro level job of this, then use dual lock. It's a lot more expensive, but it locks the pedals down much harder, which will translate to longer cable life, as they won't get flexed by pedal movement nearly as much.

4) Run your cables. You can start running cable from the PBC or from the farthest pedals (I typically start from the PBC), but once you start, stick with it. It keeps everything simpler and more organized when you start locking things down. For the cables themselves, I recommend soldering one end, figuring out exactly what route it will take, then cutting the final length. Give it plenty of slack - cable is cheap, and it can save you a lot of trouble later. I try to keep DC power cable separate from signal cable just on principle, but don't worry too much about it. AC power cable is the real noise source, so it should be kept as far away from signal cable as possible.

5) Lock down the cables. Start from where you've soldered the plugs onto the cables and work your way to the opposite end, locking things down as you go. Take the time to keep it neat. Label everything clearly. Make sure you leave slack on both sides of the cable run, especially if you use plugs that don't have strain relief.

6) Solder on the remaining plug ends. Test each one as you go. It's a hassle, but it can save you a lot of time later.

Obviously there's a lot more to it, but you get better with time and experience. Keep asking questions if you have them, and post pics when you're done!
Dude, I almost feel like I could design and wire a pedalboard now! Except my soldering skills suck... mostly. I'm sure it would be a mess, hahaha!
 
Dude, I almost feel like I could design and wire a pedalboard now! Except my soldering skills suck... mostly. I'm sure it would be a mess, hahaha!

Practice makes perfect! I've been soldering circuits since sophomore year of high school (I'm 32 now), so I've had plenty of practice. It's a great skill to develop and have as a guitar player though. It's saved me who knows how much money in guitar/pedal repair costs alone. With the number of pickup changes I've done over the years, it's more than paid for itself.

Wiring a board is just practice and learning from your mistakes. My first board started having issues within a year. I learned some lessons (leave some slack on both ends of the wire for instance), and my second third boards have never had a single issue.
 
Dude, I almost feel like I could design and wire a pedalboard now! Except my soldering skills suck... mostly. I'm sure it would be a mess, hahaha!

Here's my take...aside from me soldering IC chips/circuits for years...technique is important, good tools are key. ...Unless you want to rely on someone else for the rest of your life...invest in the tools and Its really not hard at all to solder a wire onto a jack...in fact its about the most basic easy thing to solder...if you have the proper tools.

I wouldn't expect you to purchase the same caliber of tools as I...Once again, i use the tools in my trade. You should consider these types of tools as listed...

Weller WD1+WDH 10T
CircuitWorks Lead-Free liquid Flux
Flux bottle dispenser or syringe/needle
WBT-0820 solder + dispenser
Helping hands clip tool

You don't need these tools as Ive listed above but if you want to make life easier...get ones that work similar. Don't by cheap crap. If you were good at soldering you could get away with cheap stuff and get the job done...These tools are an investment and you'll use them for the rest of your life.

what id pick up as a starter kit would be:

Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .031" 1 lb. Spool
Weller SM1 Solder-Mate Solder Spool Holder
Stahl Tools TCSS Temp Controlled Soldering Iron Station ESD Safe plus a few sized tips
Dual Helping Hands with Magnifier
Oatey 30106 Soldering Liquid Flux, 4 Oz, No 11 4-Ounce
2 Needle Tip Bottle Liquid Flux Dispenser Oil Solvent Applicator Dropper 0.7 Oz

The above will probably last your whole life for all electrical generic solder needs. it will also make your soldering experience go a whole lot better.



 
Here's my take...aside from me soldering IC chips/circuits for years...technique is important, good tools are key. ...Unless you want to rely on someone else for the rest of your life...invest in the tools and Its really not hard at all to solder a wire onto a jack...in fact its about the most basic easy thing to solder...if you have the proper tools.

I wouldn't expect you to purchase the same caliber of tools as I...Once again, i use the tools in my trade. You should consider these types of tools as listed...

Weller WD1+WDH 10T
CircuitWorks Lead-Free liquid Flux
Flux bottle dispenser or syringe/needle
WBT-0820 solder + dispenser
Helping hands clip tool

You don't need these tools as Ive listed above but if you want to make life easier...get ones that work similar. Don't by cheap crap. If you were good at soldering you could get away with cheap stuff and get the job done...These tools are an investment and you'll use them for the rest of your life.

what id pick up as a starter kit would be:

Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .031" 1 lb. Spool
Weller SM1 Solder-Mate Solder Spool Holder
Stahl Tools TCSS Temp Controlled Soldering Iron Station ESD Safe plus a few sized tips
Dual Helping Hands with Magnifier
Oatey 30106 Soldering Liquid Flux, 4 Oz, No 11 4-Ounce
2 Needle Tip Bottle Liquid Flux Dispenser Oil Solvent Applicator Dropper 0.7 Oz

The above will probably last your whole life for all electrical generic solder needs. it will also make your soldering experience go a whole lot better.


Thanks for the tips! I've gotten better at it, and learned a lot this year... like don't use anything but 63/37! I had some other solder (60/40, I think) and it was a major pain to work with. I've also learned to use more heat/less time. I'm actually pretty decent now, but I don't have a great work bench for it, and could really use a Helping Hands clip!
 
Thanks for the tips! I've gotten better at it, and learned a lot this year... like don't use anything but 63/37! I had some other solder (60/40, I think) and it was a major pain to work with. I've also learned to use more heat/less time. I'm actually pretty decent now, but I don't have a great work bench for it, and could really use a Helping Hands clip!

Good to hear!

Pick up liquid flux if your not using it. Ive never used the oatey ...I use CircuitWorks Lead-Free liquid Flux...but get it by the quarts... pre tin your connections...the liquid flux and applicator is really good and is a marked improvement in performance and function.

A solder dispenser may seem not necessary but they make life easier.
 
Also, depending on the wire you are using make sure you strip the black wrap around the center conductor insulation. It is conducive and even if just barely touching the tip conductor will cause issues.
 
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